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Care Sheets
Basic Burmese Python Care Sheet
Scientific Name: Python molurus bivittatus
Indigenous Distribution:
Thailand, Vietnam, Burma, China, Borneo, etc.
Size Potential and Growth Rate:
Burmese Pythons emerge from the egg at an average length of 24 inches and usually weigh 100 grams or more. Properly fed and cared for, Burmese pythons have impressive size potential and are capable of reaching sexual maturity at an early age. Males typically reach lengths of 4 to 7 feet in the first year and are usually sexually mature by the second to third year. Females, on the other hand, have been reported to exceed 8′ by the end of their first year and can reach sexual maturity around 3-5 years. These snakes exhibit a high level of sexual size dimorphism. Aside from unusual cases, adult males seem to stay in the nine to fourteen foot range while adult females have been known to achieve lengths of thirteen to twenty plus feet. Sub adults usually weigh between 25 and 60lbs. Although these snakes grow quickly in terms of length from the time of hatching, it isn’t until after the second and third year, that they are capable of considerable girth and weight gain. It is not uncommon for adults (over 4-5 years of age) to reach weights in excess of 100 pounds. Although some Burmese pythons have been recorded at over 20 feet long and over 200lbs, such animals are rarely encountered in captivity. If you are ambivalent about obtaining a snake that has such great size potential, keep in mind the most influential factors affecting a Burmese python’s growth rate in captivity are their feeding schedules and the size of prey items you choose to feed them. If you continually and frequently feed your Burmese python the largest prey it can safely ingest and metabolize, the faster your snake will grow. Nevertheless, Burmese pythons will require significant amounts of food as they mature into adulthood. Since adult burms do have hearty appetites, these animals can become quite pricey to maintain over time. Keep in mind an underfed adult Burmese Python is a dangerous python!
Temperament
Most captive bred Burmese pythons have pleasant, calm dispositions. In my experience, most hatchling C.B. individuals have little to no fear of humans when handled in a gentle manner. However, it is not uncommon to have a few nervous and nippy individuals within a clutch of eggs. These more aggressive individuals usually calm down within 3-14 days with gentle confident handling. As one interacts with newly hatched Burmese pythons for the first few times, it quickly becomes apparent just what kind of disposition certain individuals may be prone to as they mature into adults. It is believed that genetics may play a large role in the determination of behavior between individuals, perhaps more so than environmental factors. It is very rare that properly cared for C.B. Burmese pythons have aggressive temperaments, but such individuals do exist. A potential buyer should be aware of the broad spectrum of personality types within this species. Very aggressive animals are highly capable of inflicting serious injuries, and can take time to calm down. Keep in mind some individual snakes may never become tolerant of handling even after many years. One thing is for certain however; if you do your research and are successful in acquiring a placid C.B. hatchling from the start, you will have a much more pleasant experience overall working with this species of python. Moreover, it is imperative that owners treat these animals with the respect they deserve. This will greatly increase the keeper’s chances in successfully raising what I think (and I don’t think I’m alone here) are one of the most beautiful and mild mannered species of python available. It would be a lie to say these animals in general are incapable of having predictable, gentle, and just plain sweet personalities. In my opinion this couldn’t be further from the truth. Rather, from my personal experience, these magnificent snakes have simply been a joy to work with over the years.
Housing and Choosing an Appropriate Enclosure
There are a few key factors one must take into consideration when choosing the right environment for a newly acquired Burmese. Hatchling Burms for instance do best in relatively small enclosures for the first month or so. I start my baby Burms off in Tupperware containers that measure 18″ x 7.5′’ x 3.5″. These containers are translucent which help provide security for newly hatched animals. Most beginner reptile hobbyists tend to use 10 gallon aquariums for their newly acquired baby pythons. These can work fine but there are few things you should keep in mind if you choose to house a python in a fish tank. The first is the fact that such enclosures are completely transparent. Although this is nice for the owner because the animal can be clearly viewed from all angles, it can make for a stressful environment for a young animal that is not yet accustomed to interaction with people. If you must use an aquarium I recommend blocking off the back and sides with some type of translucent or opaque material. Simply hanging newspaper or construction paper attached with scotch tape can aid in making your new animal feel more secure in it’s new environment. As a nervous juvenile python matures and becomes used to human interaction, it should develop and maintain a calm disposition at which time you can remove these visual barriers if you choose to do so. Keep in mind most species of snakes do not like feeling exposed. A young python that feels “out in the open” will often become frightened and defensive, and may resort to biting.
Other potential problems you might encounter when using fish tanks for housing reptiles include difficulty in cleaning since anything over 10 gallons is quite heavy and hard to move around. Another draw back to using aquariums for snake enclosures is the fact that they provide access to the animal exclusively from the top. Not only can this be a potentially dangerous situation during feeding, but also a screen top is ineffective in holding in heat and humidity. If you do have a screen top and you are in a dry colder environment, blocking off 1/3-3/4 of the screen top with some sort of plastic material will aid in keeping in valuable heat and moisture. If you do alter your screen top, make sure the cool side is the side being vented.
As your python matures and grows you should progressively move it into larger enclosures. Putting a small animal in too large of an enclosure can make for a nervous, insecure, and sometimes aggressive animal. A good rule of thumb in choosing an adequately sized enclosure is to provide about five times the floor space that your animal takes up when it is curled in a circle. In other words your snake will take up about 1/6 of the floor space provided when in a resting posture. Usually an enclosure that is half the length of your python when fully stretched will provide enough space. Sub adult Burmese do well in roughly 4′ x 3′ x 2′ habitats and 6′-8′ long enclosures are usually sufficient for most adult animals. Note that you should always provide some sort of “hide box” for your python in order to make it feel secure in its home. It is best to have two of them, one on the cooler side of the enclosure and one on the hot side. This way your Burmese doesn’t have to choose between thermo regulating its body temperature and security. You can buy hide boxes from most pet stores or you can make one by cutting a doorway in the side of an opaque Tupperware container, then simply place it in the cage flipped upside down. Cutting an appropriate sized hole in the top of a tray used to catch the excess water from a plant pot can also work very well. Keep in mind the right sized hide box should only be a little bigger than the animal itself when it is curled up inside. Having too large of a “hide” defeats the purpose of creating a sanctuary for your animal within the enclosure. An adequately sized hide box will slightly touch the sides of your python when it is curled up but will not crowd the animal.
Temperature and Heating Elements
The ambient temperature for your Burmese Python should be somewhere between 75 and 84 degrees. Most Large species of Pythons seem to feel most comfortable with an ambient of 78 to 80 degrees. A night time drop in temperature should have no ill effect on your python as long as it is only a few degrees. The warmer side of the enclosure often referred to as a “hot spot” should be maintained between 88 and 92 degrees Fahrenheit. The opposing side of the enclosure should be about 10 degrees cooler. Depending on your set up, the “cool” side of the enclosure usually will roughly match the ambient room temperature. Make sure the cool side of your python’s environment does not drop below 75 degrees. Temperatures lower than 75 degrees for extended periods of time can cause lack of appetite and will eventually make a Burmese Python more susceptible to illness such as respiratory infection. Although incandescent lighting and convectional heat coils are options for heating your enclosure, under tank heat elements or “belly heat” work well especially for large pythons. Although appropriate temperatures can be achieved with heat lamps and ceramic heat elements, such options do not provide under belly warmth and usually only heat a small surface area. If you choose such heat elements care must be taken to ensure your reptile is unable to make direct contact with light bulbs and ceramic heaters. Many reptiles, especially lizards and snakes possess a relatively high threshold for pain and can be insensitive to areas that are dangerously hot. Thus they are prone to serious thermal injury especially with repeated exposure if necessary precautions aren’t taken prior to introducing your animal to its new home. If you choose heat lamps or ceramic heaters, make sure the heat fixture is placed the appropriate distance from the surface being heated to achieve the desired temperature. Always test the temperature of the surface being heated up to an hour after being turned on before introducing the snake into its new home. Radiant heat panels can also be very effective especially when heating large enclosures. Keep in mind that most heat pads and heat panels available today are designed to be used in conjunction with some type of thermostat or rheostat. Please Note! If a heat element alone is plugged directly into a 120V socket, chances are it will reach temperatures that could be life threatening to your animal. Keep in mind reptiles are exothermic meaning they only have the ability to regulate body temperature within the given range of temperature within their environment. Unfortunately, most reptiles will choose a surface that is too hot over being too cold. A heat rock that is too hot or has hot spots on it, which often reach well over 130 degrees, can cause serious burns on some reptiles. There are many commercially available thermostats on the market ranging from about $30 to $400 dollars which are usually the best option in that they allow you to set a safe and constant temperature for your animal. If the range in temperature within the room where you will be keeping your reptile isn’t too drastic and you are looking to save your pennies, heating pads designed for humans can work well. If you choose this option as a heat element make sure you buy one that has at least 3 different heat settings and does not include the automatic safety shut-off mechanism. Many heat pads made in recent years have this feature so be sure to check. I cannot stress enough how important it is to know your temperatures. Thermometers work well but laser temp guns are the best for measuring surface temperatures. Temp guns are invaluable to novice and expert herpeticulturelist alike.
Humidity Levels
Humidity, or the amount of moisture the air is holding inside of your snake’s enclosure is an important consideration for many species of Pythons. A 70% relative humidity is optimal for Burmese Pythons. Keep in mind these animals inhabit areas with high temperature and frequent rainfall. If you are not sure of your humidity level, you could be setting your animal up for health problems shortly down the road. A safe range of humidity for this species is between 60% and 75%. Depending on where you live, the seasonal changes in weather encountered throughout the year will greatly influence how difficult it will be to maintain appropriate humidity level for your animal. The best way to gage humidity is to purchase a hydrometer which should be placed in various locations throughout the enclosure to ensure an accurate reading. The cheapest humidity gages are usually in the same isle where humidifiers are sold.
Another effective method in knowing your humidity levels is to pay attention to your python’s shed cycle. If your snake sheds on time and without much difficulty, your humidity level is most likely adequate. A “good” shed will sometimes come off the snake in one piece although this is rare with most large Pythons. A good rule of thumb here; if there is no skin left attached to the animal by the end of the shedding process, then the humidity is high enough. If there is retained skin or eye caps on your Python subsequent to shedding, then you should raise your humidity levels. If your snake’s environment is too dry, frequent misting can be helpful. Other tricks include spilling a little water on the substrate or moving the water container partially over the heat source especially before and during the shed cycle. This will raise the humidity and make the process of shedding less strenuous for your snake. If your animal does experience a “bad” shed, be sure to soak the snake in warm water no deeper than half the snake’s body height for a minimum of 30 minutes. Never leave an animal soaking unsupervised. After a good soak the excess skin should be gently peeled off or if the animal is placed back in its enclosure, it will usually continue where it left off during shedding and sloth the rest of its skin. If there is still excess skin stuck to your snake try soaking again. Mineral oil can be applied to really stubborn areas where skin seems to be retained more easily, such as under the chin, along the back, or the tip of the tail.
Substrate or Ground Medium Options
There are a few options when it comes to choosing a substrate for your Python. Bedding such as aspen shavings and other store bought substrates are suitable for babies and young animals but can be messy and unmanageable with large snakes. Some of the pros to using bedding are that it’s highly absorbent and that it makes “spot” cleaning a fairly quick and easy process. Baby Burmese Pythons will often enjoy burrowing underneath the bedding that you have chosen for added security. Personally, I prefer not to use bedding because it creates dust which can be involuntarily inhaled into the sinus passages and lungs of snakes and other reptiles, often causing respiratory complications. Some types of bedding can also become lodged in the mouth and nose and even accidentally ingested during feeding. If you choose bedding as a ground medium, it is best to feed your python in a secondary container to prevent problems during feeding time. I have used newspaper for years without any problems. It is fairly absorbent and is usually free or of little cost. Another convenience of using newspaper is the fact that it can be rolled up and thrown away subsequent to being soiled. Whatever substrate you choose, make sure it is nontoxic. Cedar chips are toxic to reptiles and can even be fatal. Although many new keepers of large snakes want to provide a beautiful and naturalistic looking environment for their animal, they will soon realize this is simply not an option especially for a large Python. Keep in mind any extra furnishing you choose for your snake will only increase the amount of cleaning you must do on a weekly basis. Any additions to your snake’s home such as climbing structures, perches, and hide boxes should be impermeable to moisture and easily disinfected. Think simple and clean when it comes to choosing an environment for your Python and you will be better off.
Feeding
Hatchling Burmese pythons can be started on adult mice or equivalent sized rats every 3-7 days. Most pythons usually accept food after the first shedding of their skin (typically within 14-30 days). After a couple of months these pythons can be fed progressively larger prey such as small rats, gerbils, or guinea pigs. As your python becomes larger more time can elapse between feedings and your Burmese should be content with eating every 10 to 14 days. At the 6-8′ range these pythons are fully capable of feeding on 2-4 pound rabbits. Adults over 10′ can handle 5-12 pound rabbits with ease. Feeding your Burmese pre-killed or frozen thawed prey is highly recommended. Not only is this safer for your snake but it is also usually a cheaper and more convenient option since you can keep your snake’s food in the freezer instead of having to make multiple trips to the local pet store every time your snake gets hungry. Prey should always be offered with some sort of feeding tongs. Don’t be stupid! Never attempt to feed your python by hand. It’s only a matter of time before you are bitten, perhaps seriously injured or even killed. Avoid being bitten and constricted at all times. Many animals will simply swallow their food shortly after you safely lay it inside and re-secure the enclosure. The latter method is the safest especially with larger, potentially dangerous animals.
Water
Your Python should always have access to fresh water. Tupperware containers work well but can easily be tipped over by a restless snake. Appropriately sized dog dishes work well, especially the kind that have a wider base at the bottom. These dishes are easy to clean and are difficult to spill. Be sure to scrub and disinfect your snake’s water dish at least once a week (the more often the better). A mixture of water and bleach work well. Always make sure your animal’s water dish is rinsed thoroughly after disinfecting it, especially if you are using any toxic cleaning solution. It is unnecessary to provide this species with a water dish large enough to soak in. If a Burmese Python is continually attempting to soak, this usually means something is wrong. Does your snake have mites? Is it attempting to hide in its water dish because you haven’t provided a hide box? Overall these snakes do fine without huge water containers as long as you have achieved proper humidity levels. Out of all the information I’ve included within this care sheet, access to fresh water is probably the most important. Fresh water equals a healthy snake! Do not slack on cleaning, rinsing, and refilling your Burmese Python’s water container.
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